I took another step and the light rain increased intensity once more. While the stairs felt stable and I had a decent grip on the concrete structure, I felt frustrated and a little lost as the stairs winded around Enoshima Island. I looked out at the marina, the dark clouds hanging over the coastline and wondered if this was the day I get drenched by a soaking rain. One more step up. Two. Three. Wait, am I counting steps now? The breeze blew into my face and rain came at me sideways. I had no idea how close I was to the top of the mountain and the stairs, right now, felt interminable.
Enoshima Island is a place linked to the mainland by a long footbridge. The cliffs of the island rise right out of the sea, and you don’t see any surrounding beaches or flat land around the island. As you walk across the bridge toward this expanse, below are dark, wet sands punctuating the remaining land as you walk across the bay in front of you. Looking back on the town of Enoshima, high-rise hotels beckon guests onto those dark beaches in sunnier, brighter times. On this day, no one is on the beach and the rain falls all around.
About halfway across the bridge, I look out over the water to try to peer through the dense cloud cover at Mt. Fuji. Sadly, the view is hidden from me, and I’m lost in a wet haze that surrounds me and the island. I keep walking in the hopes of finding something interesting and unusual on this day. Will Enoshima bring me some kind of luck?

While I walked across the bridge with a few fellow travelers, once on the island, the crowds were dense in the little street that headed straight into the trees that covered the hillside. I pushed past the tourist shops and small food stands to make my way through the torii gates on onto a flat, level spot where stairs climb to the right and left. The rain is constant now, and my little umbrella forces me to walk more deliberately to keep most of the rain off my body. See, I’m a tall guy, 6’3” on a good day, of a size that creates problems for the tiny umbrella that I hold in my right hand. As I turn to the left and begin walking up the stairs, I already have ten miles on my feet and am now wondering about my choices for this day.

My days in Tokyo have been wonderful in their way and I’ve had to push aside some of my more grandiose plans to do street photography in the city. The rain, wind, and cold have kept me cowering under an umbrella, and trying to capture scenes while avoiding rain has been a chore. Still, I persevered and decided to head to Kamakura and Enoshima as a way of shouting at the sky, “I’m walking through any maelstrom you throw at me!”
So, I take steps up the north side of the island and quickly see that these steep steps will be my companion for a while as I make my way to the top. I pass an escalator (WHAT?!) that propels tourists in three sections of fast-moving stairs. I stop and think about the idea…should I take an easy path? Nah, I say confidently, not realizing my mistake until far too late in the walk/hike/struggle.

As I make my way, a fence on my left has locks hung in places. These kinds of tokens make me wonder at the meaning, thinking back on stories about locks on bridges like in Paris over the Siene. I’ve never been to Paris. Never seen the locks or the bridges. Here, locks are linked to a metal fence overlooking a marina. Right now, however, these views are covered in clouds, and I begrudgingly continue up. The thing is, I live at more than 5,000 feet elevation in the U.S., and walking at sea level has given me a bit more energy as I climb. Still, the stairs are steep in places, and I’m walking through the rain sometimes wondering if I’ll slip and fall. The stairs wind up and up and up. I’m reminded of Fushimi Inari and the walk through the forest up the mountain. This hike, while similar in some ways, is not the same. This climb leads up toward a shrine and caves, and nothing quite as spectacular as the red torii scattered along a hillside. On this path at Enoshima are small souvenir shops, restaurants, and vending machines. If you look carefully, you’ll find abandoned food stalls, motorcycles covered in vines, and the remains of shop signs.


As I walk, my enthusiasm wanes and the rain is a melancholy companion on this journey. I lost track of time and the cloud cover slowly inched closer as I climbed higher. The weight of the clouds or the constancy of the rain finally pushed me to frustration, and I wondered if any of what I was doing at that moment was worth it. As my mileage ticked closer to 12, I entertained turning around and heading back down the mountain. At the time, I THOUGHT that the path would slowly wind its way back to the beginning in a loop and so I kept plodding forward.
On and on I went, stopping occasionally for a brief view or to get another green tea out of the ubiquitous vending machines. As I came to the caves perched near the top of the island, they were closed and so I continued as the stairs finally descended toward the south side of the island. The stairs got steeper and steeper, heading down until I turned a corner, and I met their end in rocks just at the edge of the water. I looked at people taking pictures in the gloom of the day and searched around for a path to the other side of the mountain. It did not exist. I turned around. I looked up at the stairs I had just come down. WTF.
As I glanced around me, I saw five stone markers…a sign placed in front of them told a brief story. One of these stones was inscribed with a haiku by Matsuo Basho who had visited here 500 years before. Wow. Here he was again just like he was at Ueno Park a day before. The carving was obscured by moss and lichen. I stayed for a minute and the rain fell. It was a moment. Wet, and sweaty under my jacket, I stared at the stone, squinting my eyes to try and make out the characters carved into the granite. I couldn’t see a thing. This moment in time, like this day, was obscured, its meaning lost, and the effort expended seemed pointless. All of it felt pointless.
Without a doubt / flowerlike sea spray is / the spring of the bay (Matsuo Basho)
I turned and sighed, slowly forcing my tired legs to climb the stairs again. Up I went. An elderly woman walked past me, smiled, and continued. I pushed my weary body forward and soon caught up and passed her. She smiled again and I made it to the top feeling defeated. I stopped to check out the Enoshima “Candle” a tower on top of the mountain that, in clear weather, would give you quite a view of Mt. Fuji. Not today, of course. I grabbed another green tea, and just wandered around, a bit. I felt lost internally and externally. Where was I going, literally, and where was I going, metaphysically? I concluded: F-ing nowhere.

I tried to make the best of it all and started the long walk back to the bridge. I picked my way downstairs as rain spilled from step to step. I didn’t need to worry. The steps were solid, and the surface had plenty of friction. I returned to the locks on the fence and then to the flat concrete where I started my journey. I walked through the still dense crowds of people and came to notice that I was the only non-Asian person in the mass of folks. I noticed this situation earlier when I was seeing the people on rocks at the edge of the ocean on the north side, and now I was struck by how outlandish I must look. A giant of a human walking through groups of people speaking Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, Mandarin, and a couple of languages I couldn’t make out. I suddenly felt so alone.
Here I was in this crush of humanity feeling desperately isolated. I stopped on the way down, interrupting the crowd, and took a few quick photos of the scene. I could tangibly feel the loneliness of being one out of many. It’s a fascinating feeling. I noticed this circumstance back in Asakusa that same day. On the monorail from Enoshima to the main JR train line to Shinagawa, I was the only white person in the car. I noticed the gentle stares. As I made it into the chaos of Shinagawa and all the construction, the white folks I saw there had luggage boarding a train to Narita and to their homes.

On the train to Asakusa on the Ginza line, again I was among Japanese folks coming home from work or elsewhere. My thoughts collided as I tried to make sense of the day in Enoshima. What had I experienced? What had happened? I was lost in thought when the train pulled into Asakusa station, a station a bit more derelict than others in Tokyo. I had become very familiar with the place and chose my exit strategically to get me close to food. It was about 8:30 PM. When I exited the station fierce wind hit me and I made my way across the bridge over the Sumida into Taito City and toward a small pub below the Asahi building. The black glass and golden steam represented on the top were comforting as I plopped my body down onto a seat at the bar. I ordered octopus in a basil sauce, and a new dark beer, and just pondered it all. Enoshima. Stairs. Rain. Basho. My journey, today at least, was done.






















